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Archive for the ‘Europe’ Category

A year ago I wrote this essay: “The City of Light and the Cités of Darkness.” I had returned from a summer traveling around Europe with my wife and the strongest impression I got, not just in Paris but also in Frankfurt and in Amsterdam, was that the way Europe was dealing with its immigrants [...]

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The Eurostar had the most comfortable seat that ever crippled me. My back is still a mess.
After Paris the everyday grace of living was missing from London and the British seemed crass. S. missed the good manners we encountered in Paris. The British are supposed to be well-mannered and the French rude. [...]

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The Paris I have wanted to live in has always been the Paris of my imagination, the Paris I made out of what I’ve read – “A Moveable Feast,” “Being Geniuses Together,” Morley Callahan, “Exile’s Return” and “Tropic of Cancer.” The Paris of today is bright, hard, expensive, covered by CNN and, worst of all, [...]

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Yesterday we did our laundry, packed paid our bill (less than I had feared) and said goodbye to Paris, a difficult goodbye as I realized what a different city it was, even in this brass age, designed for living. We took the Eurostar to London, very fast and comfortable. Disembarking we saw Catherine Deneuve standing [...]

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From a trip to the Louvre:
“Le Grande Odalisque” by Ingres. Flesh so rotten it’s about to fall off the bone, a peach or partridge about to turn.
“Winged Victory of Samothrace.” Ambassadors from all over the Greek world, especially Asia Minor, came once a year to Samothrace, an island in the northern Aegean, to [...]

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The Jewish Museum in Paris is located in a beautiful old hotel particulier in the Marais. Instead of being a catch-all or try to exhaust the catalogue of the Jewish experience, it focused on the experience of Jews through their art, focusing on France. So you move from beautiful early medieval grave markers [...]

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Today we walked down through St.-Germain des Pres and over the Seine to the Jewish Museum in the Marais, the Picasso Museum, Place des Vosges, Pont Sully, up rue Cardinal Lemoine to the Place Contrescarpe. I thought the Place Contrescarpe sounded familiar, so I stopped at a bookshop just off the square. I [...]

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Horrible nightmare: I was in Boulder, Colorado with two girlfriends and two groups of people, one of which was an acting troupe I led. I kept traveling between the two. With a friend, who was part M. and part this guy I worked with at Ask Jeeves whose wife edited an art magazine. [...]

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Took the Métro to the Eiffel Tower, walked along the Seine, waited in a 30-minute line with Koreans, Brits, Italians and Arabs but they closed the top due to the most amazing winds I’d ever experienced. We took the slat-wise water—wheel-powered elevators to the second viewing platform from whence we could see the Sacre [...]

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I wheeled and dealed with Joseph, the multi-lingual concierge, to get the suite on the 5th floor, with sitting room, two bathrooms, balcony with a view of the Pantheon, St.-Jacques and the tops of the tree-lined street below.
We walked down rue Guy Lussac, Boulevard St.-Michel to the Boulevard St.-Germain to an old brasserie called Vargende [...]

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